Explorer vs Explorer II: Rolex Explorer Models Compared
Explorer vs Explorer II is one of the most common Rolex comparisons, and the short answer is this: the Explorer is a simple three-hand watch with no date, sold today in 36 mm and 40 mm, while the Explorer II is a 42 mm watch with a date, a fixed 24-hour bezel and a second time zone. They share a name and a tool-watch background, but they wear and work very differently.
This guide covers what each model is, how they differ, the key references old and new, and how to decide which one suits you.
What is the Rolex Explorer?
The Explorer is Rolex's purest everyday sports watch. Its identity comes from the expedition era of the early 1950s, and it is closely linked with the first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. The design has barely changed in spirit since then: a black dial with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9, a smooth steel bezel, and hours, minutes and seconds only.
The current steel models are the Explorer 36 (ref. 124270) and the Explorer 40 (ref. 224270). Both use Rolex's in-house calibre 3230 with roughly 70 hours of power reserve, sapphire crystal, Chromalight luminescence and 100 metres of water resistance.
What is the Rolex Explorer II?
The Explorer II arrived in 1971 as a more specialised tool. It was designed for situations where it is hard to tell day from night, such as caving, so it adds a 24-hour hand that reads against a fixed, engraved 24-hour bezel. Unlike the Explorer, it also shows the date under a Cyclops lens.
The current model is the ref. 226570, introduced in 2021. It measures 42 mm, uses calibre 3285 with about 70 hours of power reserve, and is rated to 100 metres. The local hour hand can be set independently of the minutes, which means the orange 24-hour hand can keep track of a second time zone. It comes with either a black dial or a white dial, the latter usually called the "Polar."
Explorer vs Explorer II: the key differences
| Feature | Explorer (124270 / 224270) | Explorer II (226570) |
|---|---|---|
| Case size | 36 mm or 40 mm | 42 mm |
| Bezel | Smooth, unmarked steel | Fixed steel, engraved 24-hour scale |
| Date | No | Yes, with Cyclops lens |
| Second time zone | No | Yes, via 24-hour hand and independent hour hand |
| Dial | Black with 3-6-9 numerals | Black or white ("Polar") |
| Calibre | 3230 | 3285 |
| Power reserve | About 70 hours | About 70 hours |
| Water resistance | 100 m | 100 m |
| Material | Oystersteel (124273 in steel and yellow gold) | Oystersteel |
Size and wrist presence
Size is usually the deciding factor. The Explorer 36 sits low and compact and suits smaller wrists or anyone who prefers a vintage feel. The Explorer 40 adds presence without much extra bulk. The Explorer II at 42 mm, with its wide engraved bezel and large hands, reads as a noticeably bigger watch on the wrist than either Explorer.
Function
The Explorer tells the time and nothing else, which is exactly why many owners like it. The Explorer II adds the date and a practical GMT function: set the orange hand to home time, then jump the hour hand to local time when you travel. If you fly across time zones regularly, that is a real advantage.
Dial and legibility
Both are highly legible. The Explorer's 3-6-9 layout is one of the most recognisable dials Rolex makes. The Explorer II uses bold, oversized markers and hands, and the white Polar dial gives it a distinctive look.
Rolex Explorer references explained
The Explorer has had a long run of references, and size has moved around more than most people expect. If you are new to reading Rolex model numbers, our guide to Rolex reference numbers explained covers how the digits work.
| Reference | Years | Size | Calibre |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1016 | Long-running vintage model, replaced in 1989 | 36 mm | Earlier movements |
| 14270 | 1989-2001 | 36 mm | 3000 |
| 114270 | 2001-2010 | 36 mm | 3130 |
| 214270 | 2010-2021 | 39 mm | 3132 |
| 124270 / 124273 | 2021-present | 36 mm | 3230 |
| 224270 | 2023-present | 40 mm | 3230 |
The 214270 "Mark I" and "Mark II"
The 39 mm 214270 was updated around 2016. Early examples have shorter hands and 3-6-9 numerals without luminous fill; the later version has longer hands sized for the case and luminous numerals. Collectors refer to these as Mark I and Mark II, and it is worth knowing which one you are looking at.
The two-tone 124273
Alongside the steel 124270, Rolex introduced the 124273 in 2021, an Explorer 36 in Rolesor (Oystersteel and yellow gold) with a gold bezel, crown and centre bracelet links. It is a dressier take on a model better known as a plain steel tool watch.
Rolex Explorer II references explained
| Reference | Years | Size | Calibre | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1655 | 1971 to mid-1980s | - | 1575 | 24-hour hand linked to the hour hand; no second time zone |
| 16550 | Mid-to-late 1980s | - | 3085 | First Explorer II that could track a second time zone |
| 16570 | 1989-2011 | 40 mm | 3185, later 3186 | Black or white dial; thin red 24-hour hand |
| 216570 | 2011-2021 | 42 mm | 3187 | Larger case; orange 24-hour hand returns |
| 226570 | 2021-present | 42 mm | 3285 | Slimmer lugs; about 70-hour power reserve |
The original 1655 is a very different watch from today's model. Its 24-hour hand moved with the hour hand, so it worked as an AM/PM indicator rather than a true dual-time display. From the 16550 onward, the movement allowed independent setting, which turned the Explorer II into a practical travel watch.
For buyers of modern pieces, the 16570 is the classic 40 mm option, the 216570 introduced the larger 42 mm case and orange hand, and the 226570 brings the newer 32-series movement and longer power reserve.
Which should you buy: Explorer or Explorer II?
Choose the Explorer if
- You want a clean, no-date watch that works with almost anything.
- You prefer a smaller case, 36 mm or 40 mm (or 39 mm with a pre-owned 214270).
- You value simplicity over extra functions.
Choose the Explorer II if
- You travel and want a second time zone at a glance.
- You want the convenience of a date.
- You like a larger, bolder sports watch, or the white Polar dial specifically.
On the pre-owned market, current references with complete sets usually command more than older references, and unusual variants such as the two-tone 124273 or early vintage pieces sit in their own price bands. Condition, service history and original parts matter more than any single reference number.
What to check when buying a pre-owned Explorer or Explorer II
- Reference and serial: confirm the reference matches the dial, hands and movement, and use our Rolex serial numbers by year chart to check the production period.
- Authenticity: both models are widely copied. Our guide on how to spot a fake Rolex covers the main tells.
- Bezel and case: the Explorer II's steel bezel scratches, and the Explorer's smooth bezel shows polishing. Look for sharp case lines.
- Dial details: on the 214270, check whether it is a Mark I or Mark II, as that affects what you are paying for.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Rolex Explorer II a GMT watch?
Modern versions are. From the 16550 onward, the hour hand can be set independently of the 24-hour hand, so you can track two time zones. The original 1655 could not, because its 24-hour hand was linked to the hour hand.
Does the Rolex Explorer have a date?
No. The Explorer has always been a time-only watch with hours, minutes and seconds. If you want a date, the Explorer II is the model with one.
What size is the Rolex Explorer?
The current Explorer comes in 36 mm (ref. 124270 and two-tone 124273) and 40 mm (ref. 224270). Between 2010 and 2021, the Explorer was 39 mm (ref. 214270), and most earlier references were 36 mm.
What is the Explorer II Polar?
"Polar" is the collector's name for the Explorer II with a white dial. Rolex has offered the Explorer II with black or white dials across several references, including the 16570, 216570 and current 226570.
Are the Explorer and Explorer II water resistant?
Both current models are rated to 100 metres, with screw-down crowns and Oyster cases. That is fine for swimming, though neither is designed as a dive watch.
Is the Explorer II bigger than the Explorer?
Yes. The current Explorer II is 42 mm, compared with 36 mm or 40 mm for the Explorer. Its wide engraved bezel and date also make it look and feel larger on the wrist.
Shop the Explorer and Explorer II at Crescent Watch Guys
Browse our current Rolex Explorer and Explorer II collection to compare references side by side. Every watch we sell is inspected and guaranteed authentic. If the reference or dial you want is not in stock, we can help you source a specific watch, and if you are moving from one Explorer to the other, ask us about selling or trading your watch.