Nautilus vs Aquanaut: Patek Philippe's Sports Watches Compared
Nautilus vs Aquanaut is the comparison most buyers reach when they start looking at Patek Philippe sports watches. The short answer: the Nautilus is the older and dressier design, launched in 1976 around an integrated metal bracelet, and its time-and-date men's model is now made only in white gold. The Aquanaut arrived in 1997 as a younger, more casual watch on a composite strap, and it is still offered in stainless steel. The core models of both lines use the same self-winding calibre, so the decision mostly comes down to design, size, metal and budget.
Nautilus vs Aquanaut at a glance
| Feature | Nautilus | Aquanaut |
|---|---|---|
| Launched | 1976 | 1997 |
| First reference | 3700/1A | 5060A |
| Case | Rounded octagonal bezel with an 'ear' on each side of the case | Rounded octagonal bezel, no ears |
| Dial | Horizontal embossed lines, baton hour markers | Embossed checkerboard-style pattern, Arabic numerals |
| Usual fit | Integrated metal bracelet | Composite 'Tropical' strap |
| Core men's size today | 41 mm (5811/1G) | 40.8 mm (5167A) or 42.2 mm (5168G) |
| Time-and-date men's metals today | White gold | Steel, rose gold, white gold |
| Water resistance, current catalogue | 30 m | 30 m |
| General price level | Higher | Lower for comparable models |
What is the Patek Philippe Nautilus?
The Nautilus is Patek Philippe's original luxury sports watch. It was introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700/1A, designed by Gérald Genta, with a case inspired by a ship's porthole. The two 'ears' on the sides of the case and the horizontally embossed dial are still the features that identify the model.
The 3700 was a steel watch nicknamed the Jumbo, rated to 120 m and powered by the slim calibre 28-255 C, which was based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920. A smaller 37.5 mm version, the reference 3800, followed in 1981.
The modern era began in 2006, when Patek Philippe marked the model's 30th anniversary with the reference 5711. The steel 5711/1A became one of the most sought-after watches of its time before it was discontinued in 2021. Its successor, the 5811/1G-001, arrived in October 2022 in white gold with a 41 mm case.
The Nautilus line also includes complicated models: the 5712 with moon phase and power reserve, the 5726 annual calendar, the 5980 flyback chronograph, the 5990 chronograph with Travel Time and the 5740 perpetual calendar. For the collection's 50th anniversary in 2026, Patek Philippe added three ultra-thin limited editions powered by the calibre 240, two in 41 mm white gold and one in 38 mm platinum.
You can see what is in stock in the pre-owned Patek Philippe Nautilus collection.
What is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut?
The Aquanaut is Patek Philippe's second sports watch line, launched in 1997 with the steel reference 5060A. It kept the rounded octagonal bezel of the Nautilus but dropped the ears, added Arabic numerals and an embossed dial pattern, and came on a matching composite strap that Patek Philippe calls the Tropical strap. The first Aquanaut was a compact watch of about 36 mm, joined soon after by the larger 5065A.
In 2007, for the model's tenth anniversary, Patek Philippe redesigned the line and introduced the 5167A at 40.8 mm. That reference remains the core men's Aquanaut today. Later additions include the Aquanaut Travel Time (first seen in 2011 as the steel 5164A), the 42.2 mm white gold 5168G from 2017 and the 5968A flyback chronograph from 2018. The women's Aquanaut Luce line dates from 2004.
Current examples are listed in the pre-owned Patek Philippe Aquanaut collection.
Nautilus vs Aquanaut: the main differences
Case and dial design
Both watches have a rounded octagonal bezel with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The Nautilus case has the porthole-style ears at 3 and 9 o'clock, which make it look wider and more formal on the wrist. The Aquanaut case is simpler and more rounded.
The dials are easy to tell apart. A Nautilus dial has horizontal embossed lines and applied baton markers. An Aquanaut dial has a raised checkerboard-style pattern and applied Arabic numerals, and the same pattern is repeated on the strap.
Bracelet vs strap
The Nautilus is designed around an integrated metal bracelet, although some references are sold on straps. The Aquanaut is a strap watch first. Patek Philippe did make a steel Aquanaut on a bracelet, the 5167/1A, but that version was discontinued in 2025. The composite strap makes the Aquanaut lighter and more casual, and it is cut to length for the wearer, so check strap length and condition on a pre-owned example.
Materials
This is the biggest practical difference today. The time-and-date men's Nautilus is made in white gold only, and steel is limited to a few complicated references such as the 5726 annual calendar and the 5990 chronograph, plus the women's 7118. The Aquanaut is still available in steel as the 5167A and the 5968A chronograph, alongside rose gold and white gold models.
Movements
There is no meaningful gap in watchmaking. The 5811/1G Nautilus and the 5167A and 5168G Aquanaut all use the self-winding calibre 26-330 S C with a date and sweep seconds, visible through a sapphire case back. The two chronographs, the Nautilus 5990 and the Aquanaut 5968, are both built on the CH 28-520 family of flyback movements.
Water resistance
The time-and-date models in both lines were rated to 120 m for most of their history. In 2024 Patek Philippe moved all of its water-resistant watches to a single 30 m rating, which the brand says covers swimming and diving to that depth. The 5811/1G, for example, was launched with a 120 m rating and is now listed at 30 m. On a pre-owned watch, the rating printed in older paperwork may therefore differ from the current catalogue.
Nautilus and Aquanaut sizes and key references
Patek Philippe measures these cases diagonally, from 10 to 4 o'clock. Because of its ears, a Nautilus is wider than its listed size suggests: the 5711 is listed at 40 mm but measures roughly 43 mm across the ears.
| Reference | Line | Functions | Metal | Size | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5711/1A | Nautilus | Date, sweep seconds | Steel | 40 mm | Discontinued 2021 |
| 5811/1G-001 | Nautilus | Date, sweep seconds | White gold | 41 mm | Current |
| 5712/1R-001 | Nautilus | Moon phase, power reserve, date | Rose gold | 40 mm | Current (steel 5712/1A discontinued 2025) |
| 5726/1A-014 | Nautilus | Annual calendar, moon phase | Steel | 40.5 mm | Current |
| 5990/1A-011 | Nautilus | Flyback chronograph, Travel Time | Steel | 40.5 mm | Current |
| 7118/1A | Nautilus | Date, sweep seconds | Steel | 35.2 mm | Current |
| 5167A-001 | Aquanaut | Date, sweep seconds | Steel | 40.8 mm | Current |
| 5168G-001 | Aquanaut | Date, sweep seconds | White gold | 42.2 mm | Current |
| 5164G-001 | Aquanaut | Travel Time | White gold | 40.8 mm | Current |
| 5968A-001 | Aquanaut | Flyback chronograph | Steel | 42.2 mm | Current |
| 5267/200A | Aquanaut Luce | Quartz, diamond bezel | Steel | 38.8 mm | Current |
Status reflects Patek Philippe's catalogue at the time of writing. The brand retires references every year, so a watch listed as current here may since have moved to the pre-owned market only.
Which should you buy: Nautilus or Aquanaut?
- Choose the Nautilus if you want the original Genta design, an integrated bracelet and a watch that works with a suit as easily as with casual clothes. Expect to pay more, and expect gold if you want a recent time-and-date model.
- Choose the Aquanaut if you want a lighter, more casual watch, prefer a strap, or want a current-production Patek Philippe sports watch in steel. It is generally the less expensive way into the brand's sports models.
- Consider size. The 40.8 mm Aquanaut 5167A wears smaller than a 41 mm Nautilus because it has no ears. The 42.2 mm Aquanaut 5168G is the larger option. For smaller wrists, the 35.2 mm Nautilus 7118 and the 38.8 mm Aquanaut Luce are worth a look.
- Consider complications. Both lines offer a second time zone and a chronograph. Only the Nautilus currently offers a perpetual calendar.
As a general rule, discontinued steel references such as the 5711/1A tend to command a premium on the pre-owned market, so the metal and the exact reference affect the price as much as the choice between the two lines.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Aquanaut cheaper than the Nautilus?
In general, yes. A comparable Aquanaut usually costs less than a Nautilus, both at retail and pre-owned. The gap varies with the reference, metal and condition, and rare Aquanaut versions can sell for more than common Nautilus models.
Is the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 discontinued?
Yes. Patek Philippe discontinued the steel 5711/1A in 2021. The 5811/1G-001, a 41 mm white gold model introduced in October 2022, took its place in the catalogue, and there is no current steel equivalent.
Which is bigger, the Nautilus or the Aquanaut?
The listed sizes are close: 41 mm for the Nautilus 5811/1G and 40.8 mm for the Aquanaut 5167A. On the wrist the Nautilus looks wider because of the ears on its case. The largest regular Aquanaut models, the 5168G and the 5968 chronograph, measure 42.2 mm.
Can you swim with a Nautilus or an Aquanaut?
Patek Philippe rates current models in both lines to 30 m and says that this rating covers swimming. Older examples were rated to 120 m when new. Any pre-owned watch should have its seals and water resistance tested by a watchmaker before it goes in the water, because gaskets age.
Does the Aquanaut come on a metal bracelet?
Not in the current men's range. The steel 5167/1A was the Aquanaut on a bracelet, and it was discontinued in 2025. The current men's Aquanaut models are supplied on composite straps.
Find a Patek Philippe Nautilus or Aquanaut at Crescent Watch Guys
Crescent Watch Guys inspects every watch it sells and guarantees its authenticity. Browse the full range of pre-owned Patek Philippe watches to compare the two lines side by side.
If the reference you want is not listed, the store can source a watch that is not in stock. If you already own a Nautilus or an Aquanaut and are thinking about moving to the other, you can sell or trade your watch. For questions about a specific reference, contact Crescent Watch Guys.